We embarked on a whirlwind tour of central Japan, covering the highlights of this amazing country on a 4 week backpacking trip.
There’s something so irresistibly captivating about travel in Japan. It’s a country that seems full of contradictions; both modern and ancient, with a hidden culture unlike anywhere we’ve ever experienced before.
We spent 30 days in Japan exploring this beautiful and fascinating country. We experienced the most welcoming hospitality we have received anywhere in the world, and saw countless temples, gardens and shrines, beautiful mountains, and amazing, sprawling cities bursting with life- so much to see and do, and that’s before we’ve even mentioned the food! (Which was of course amazing).
We travelled to Japan as a couple, but we wouldn’t hesitate to bring our children and hope to do so soon. The places we mention in this post, in our opinion, would be fantastic to explore with kids. (Read more about why we love Japan and how it is perfect for family travel here)
Japan is made up of 4 mains islands called Hokkaido, Honshu, Shikoku and Kyushu. Read on to discover the must visit places we saw on our trip to Honshu, Shikoku and Kyushu (to read about our subsequent visit to Japan’s northern Hokkaido click here).
Contents
When we went
We booked for the last week of March, first week of April.
We went to try and catch Sakura (cherry blossom full bloom).
The legendary cherry blossom of Japan is a short lived phenomenon; cherry blossom is in full bloom for only 2 weeks, and can be early or late in the season depending on climate, weather, rain – so many variables! This means it is easy to miss so if you are travelling a long way and need to book in advance, it is a bit of a risk. Luckily, our risk paid off, and we caught the Sakura in all its glory.
Tip: pre book your accommodation. We pre booked nearly everything apart from the last night as we weren’t sure what day we wanted to leave Tokyo. We ended up needing to stay and no joke, we couldn’t find a single bed in the whole city- hostel, hotel, anything. Sakura is extremely popular not only in Japan but for visitors from around the world and rooms are at a premium. That night, I got the last bed in a female only dorm and James had to sleep in a pay per hour private comic book viewing booth, bizarrely!
Spring in Japan was everything we wished for and more. The weather was hit and miss, often rainy or overcast, but we had plenty of beautiful bright sunny days mixed in too.
It was cold, though, so take a decent coat. The beauty of the blossoms was something we will never forget and an amazing experience.
Where we stayed
We stayed in hostels – private rooms with a shared bathroom. Japan is expensive and hostels were our best budget friendly option- much cheaper than any hotels.
I wouldn’t hesitate to stay in a Japanese youth hostel again, and we would also bring our kids here when we return.
We found all the hostels were impeccably clean, modern and comfortable – noticeably more so than Europe or America where we have previously hostelled!
Not only that, we met wonderful, friendly Japanese people, mainly domestic tourists, also on holiday.
They were welcoming and interested in getting to know us – it was a real pleasure talking and getting to know others and sharing our different cultures.
We also found there was not much partying in the hostels we stayed in, and everyone was very respectful of noise, etc- just how we like it!
There were a couple of times when we couldn’t find availability in the hostels, when we stayed in small guesthouses, which were just delightful. We had traditional rooms with tatami flooring, with screens and a roll away futon- it was great to experience a traditional Japanese bedroom and was super comfortable as well – we both had the best sleep of our lives sleeping on the floor.
There was also a one night stay in a capsule hotel, which was a unique experience and as previously mentioned, a one night stay for James in a comic book store! (I bagged the last hostel bed in a shared dorm that night).
Because we travelled in the extremely popular cherry blossom season (know as Hanami – meaning flower viewing), and literally everywhere was fully booked. Tip: Always pre book well in advance during Hanami
How we got around
We travelled mainly by train – the famous super fast Shinkansen.
Be aware, the trains are very expensive, so make sure to factor that in to your budget for travelling in Japan. The Shinkansen are the best option when travelling between Japanese cities – fast, efficient and impeccably clean. Shinkansen are operated by Japan Rail, and foreign tourists can get discounted tickets with the Japan Rail Pass. There are several options available to suit your needs and trip length etc.
We also took standard trains between smaller stations, some of which were amazing vintage carriages which was really fun to experience.
We also travelled by bus a few times, and once by overnight bus, which was fine, but as you would probably expect, no way near as quick or as comfortable as the trains. We got around entirely by public transport.
Before we visited Japan, I was nervous about getting around, but we found there were many signs and directions in stations written in English as well as in Japanese symbols. Not many people spoke English, however, we encounter such goodwill when trying to communicate that we didn’t find it a problem getting around as we managed through gestures, pointing and written place names. Often, we were taken with a smile to the exact place we needed to wait by helpful staff or friendly passers by.
What we ate
We absolutely loved the food in Japan! From sushi to udon, tasty rice dishes and curries, we tried it all. Most of our meals were in cozy, family-run spots, noodle and sushi bars, or just places we stumbled upon or places that had been recommended to us by hostel staff. The food was incredible and definitely one of the best parts of the trip.
Ordering food was often quite confusing – sometimes food needed to be ordered from a ticket machine with all the options in Japanese characters! In those cases, we just pressed a button, hoped for the best and see what came out! A lot of the time though, there were pictures or models of the dishes we could point to, and sometimes depending on the location, an English menu. Like our other experiences in Japan, the people working in the restaurants were so helpful and hospitable, and willing to try and understand us, that we never felt silly and always managed to order something delicious every day.
We often ate breakfast at our hostel, and got supplies for breakfast such as bread and cereals from convenience stores such as 7 – eleven or another chain we found in Japan called Lawson. We often brought lunchbox snacks from here as well, such as bento boxes or dumplings to eat under the cherry blossom in the park.
Our itinerary
In a nutshell:
Tokyo – 7 days
Tokyo is a city where old meets new in the best way. You could do it in less than 7 days if you wanted, but we didn’t want to feel rushed. We had originally planned to stay for 5 days of sightseeing, but extended our trip by two days to allow us to participate in shooting a Japanese movie – yes, really!
From ancient temples to neon-lit streets, there’s always something exciting to discover. These are favourite places we explored in Tokyo.
Asakusa. This was our favorite part of Tokyo- it felt a bit like the atmosphere of Kyoto – cute little shops full of treasures and trinkets to explore on the shopping street Nakamise, as well as temples and shrines that give the district a historic feel. Walking through Asakusa feels like stepping back in time, offering a glimpse of the past while still being in the heart of the city. If you can’t fit a visit to Kyoto in on your trip to Japan, then Asakusa is a good place to see some Japanese history. The impressive Senso- ji Temple is the oldest and most iconic temple is located in the heart of the Asakusa, in the Taito – ku district.
We saw lots of people in traditional dress (I think it was a thing; japanese people and foreign tourists alike dressing up and getting pictures in the beautiful surroundings). There are snacks carts, noodle and sushi bars dotted around and we had some amazing Japanese takeaway food of takoyaki and okonomiyaki here – just make sure to find a spot to eat it (it is considered rude to eat or drink walking around). It was so good we returned several times! The whole place is just charming to walk around and soak up the Japanese culture and atmosphere.
Next.to Asakusa is the district of Sumida. James loves nothing more than going up the tallest things when we are travelling! So naturally we decided to go up to the observation deck of the Tokyo Sky Tree which is found in Sumida. We loved the views of Tokyo, and James loved being up high! We went at dusk and watched all the city lights come on which was very cool. At the bottom of the sky tree is a major shopping mall so great for shopping if you are in to that kind of thing – we also saw robotics stores with robotic pets and a pokemon centre with lots of character shops- might be a win if you or your kids are in to that kind of thing. Sumida is also home to Sumida Park, which has a fabulous display of cherry blossoms along the river and is just spectacular.
Shinjuku and Shibuya. We loved this districts of Tokyo which are right next to each other. The famous zebra crossing intersection that is pictured crazy busy, full of people can be found in Shibuya – we got a table at a cafe high up with a great view of all the hustle and bustle- amazing people watching!
It also has trendy fashion boutiques and lively nightlife, making it a hotspot for young people and tourists alike. It’s filled with cafes, shopping centers, and entertainment spots. Just walking around looking at the kitsch shops and trendy outfits was so much fun!
Shinjuku is another bustling hub known for its skyscrapers and eclectic mix of business, shopping, and nightlife. You will see lots of Japanese buisness men walking with purpose here! By day, it’s a business center, but at night, it transforms with neon lights, karaoke bars, and the famous Kabukicho entertainment district. Both areas pulse with energy and offer a unique glimpse into Tokyo’s dynamic city life.
Tokyo was incredibly vibrant and bustling, and we experienced quite a bit of culture shock – but in the best way. From maid cafes to host and hostess bars, and even comic book and gaming rooms where you can sleep (James ended up sleeping in one when we couldn’t find a bed for the night!) it was all so different from what we were used to, which is what made it one of the most fascinating cities we have ever visited.
The Imperial Palace, Tokyo, is a peaceful escape in the city. We loved walking around the extensive grounds that have lots of plum and cherry trees – so a great place to come in the spring to view the blossoms. The palace itself is off-limits, but you can enjoy the beautiful Nijubashi Bridge which makes for a gorgeous photograph, and the serene East Gardens, filled with seasonal flowers and historic ruins.
We lived our time in Tokyo – the city is full of surprises and quirky spaces to discover. It remains one of our favourite cities, and we can not wait to return with the kids one day soon.
Nikko – 2 days
We caught the train to Nikko and spent 2 days and one night, although this could easily be done as a day trip from Tokyo.
Nikko is a beautiful mix of history and nature. Nikko is famous for its Toshogu Shrine and its peaceful temples and gardens. Nikko is surrounded by lush forests and waterfalls, and you can The area feels calm and spiritual, especially as you wander through ancient cedar trees.
We spent one day exploring the temple complex, which has several amazing temples and shrines. The architecture and carving is amazing. There is also a lovely walk near to the river where you can see the spectacular red historic shinkyo bridge.
The second day, we took a walk just outside of town to see Kanmangafuchi Abyss,which is delightful river side walk surrounded by forest to the statues of the deity Jizo. If you have another day, there is also the chance to enjoy the beautiful nature at Nikko, including waterfalls, hiking trails, and the beautiful Lake Yunoko.
Pictures from Nikko
Nagano – 3 days
We had originally planned to be completing a weeks ” woofing” work in rural Chubu region, but quickly abandoned that idea – to.say it didn’t work out would be to put it mildly!
So, we went to the nearest city that looked like ot had some interesting sights – and landed in Nagano.
When we visited Nagano in early spring, the weather was overcast, cold and snowy, which added to the mystical atmosphere. Nagano is a skiing and winter sports destination in Japan.
On our first day, we headed to the main shopping street, Chuo Dori, which leads steadily up to the temple, called Zenkoji. There are coffee and noodle bars within the temple grounds as well – we stopped for a coffee and pastry and then explored the temple. It was freezing, so after and hour or two walking, we headed back to our hostel.
On the second day, luckily the weather was lovely and clear. We went by bus to Togakushi-jinja Shrine, which is one of the favourite things we did on the whole trip. We were dropped off near a small village by the bus and followed our directions from the hostel towards a magnificent forest with towering giant redwoods. There was freshly fallen snow everywhere, which made the forest feel extra special. It was silent, and we followed the avenue of redwoods down to the Shrine. It really did feel so special.
On the third day, we went to see what we put Nagano on the itinerary for – the snow monkeys! Snow monkey Park, or Jigokudani Yaen Koen. We first spot this red faced monkeys hiding in the snow on the walk up to the thermal springs where the monkeys famously relax in nature’s own hot tub. It was a definite highlight to see the snow monkeys up close, and surreal to see them soaking in the steamy water with snow gently falling around. The hike to the park was pretty scenic too, with a magnificent view of the city from a viewing platform up their. If you’re ever in the area, don’t miss the chance to hang out with these playful monkeys—it’s such a unique and fun experience.
Pictures from Nagano
Kyoto – 5 days
Kyoto is the historic heart of Japan. Once the capital (until 1868 when it changed to Tokyo) and the place we were most excited to visit – and it didn’t disappoint.
It felt like the epitome of traditional Japan, where you can easily picture graceful women in kimonos strolling through ancient streets, and deadly ninja of the Myoryuji Temple. The city is filled with stunning temples and tranquil zen gardens that transport you to another time and place. Not only that, the food was amazing, and the hospitality we experienced was yet again on another level.
Kyoto Temple Complex and Zen Gardens
We visited as many of the famous and beautiful temples we could – we normally did one a day to avoid becoming “templed out!” There are so many to choose from, you would need a long time here to see them all. This list from Kyoto travel is a good place to start to choose which ones you would like to visit. They often have stunning gardens as well, so allow plenty of time to explore.
Lake Biwa Canal
As well as the countless beautiful temples, another of our favourite places to visit in Kyoto was the Lake Biwa Canal. It’s a popular and very beautiful spot for leisurely walks and cycling, lined with cherry blossom trees that creates stunning scenery. We absolutely loved it. It’s a great place to walk and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere, and stop for a coffee or ice cream in one of the sweet cafes.
Arashiyama Bamboo Forest
The Arashiyama Bamboo Forest in Kyoto is a magical forest which really is a must see on any visit to Kyoto. With towering bamboo stalks swaying overhead, the tranquil swish of the enormous bamboo is memerising and very serene.
The forest is located on the edge of the wide Hozu River, and we highly recommend taking a walk across Togetsukyo Bridge for stunning views of the mountains. If you have time, combine with a visit to Tenryu-ji Temple, which is also nearby and is another stunning UNESCO world hertiage site.
Some pictures from Kyoto
Nara – 3 days
Nara is another must visit, magical feeling place for experiencing historic Japan. Nara is a short 45-minute train ride from Kyoto. There are many temple complexs that you can walk around, the atmosphere is calm and serene, and the temples and shrines are surrounded by lots of parkland. In the parklands, you will undoubtedly see friendly, free-roaming deer. Home to some of Japan’s oldest and most significant temples, we visited the massive Todai-ji with its giant Buddha: until 1998 it was the biggest wooden structure in the world which gives you an idea how large it is! The deer, considered sacred, freely wander around Nara Park. When we visited in April, the deer were munching cherry blossom off branches that had fallen from the ground, and would even eat cherry blossom from your hand. With its blend of culture, nature, and friendly wildlife, Nara is a must-visit, and for those travelling with children, they would absolutely love it!
Pictures from Nara
Takamatsu – 3 days
From Nagano, we hot footed it by train and bus to the city of Takamatsu in Shikoku. This lively port town is not a famous destination, but we had some of the best and most authentic experiences on the whole of our trip to Japan here, all thanks to our amazing couch surfing host Yoshi.
We had originally decided to try couchsurfing as a way to save money while also experiencing true local culture. I had taken a bit of convincing – sleeping on a strangers couch is a bit too much for me – I love my own space to retreat to. But James convinced me, and off we went to Yoshi’s.
Yoshi, his wife and kids couldn’t have been more friendly or welcoming. He was such an amazing host.
We visited Ritsurin Gardens, one of the most beautiful traditional gardens in the whole of Japan. We went to Takamatsu Castle, an amazing Udon noodle bar tour ( their regional speciality) and went to the local Onsen (thermal spring). We even had a trip to the local natural disaster training centre, complete with cyclone and earthquake simulators! Read more about our wonderful visit to Takamatsu and the benefits of off the beaten track travel in Japan.
Pictures from Takamatsu
Fukuoka – 1 night
We headed south to Fukuoka – the biggest city on Japan’s Kyushu island. Known for its vibrant food scene and laid-back vibe, it’s the birthplace of tonkotsu ramen, so eat ramen we did; on one of the food streets we found as we wandered around finding our bearings after leaving the train station; and, of course, it was delicious. The city also has great shopping and beautiful parks, although we didn’t stay long. We headed for our bed for the night before we were onwards to Yufuin.
Yufuin – 4 days
Yufuin is a peaceful town in Japan’s Oita Prefecture, nestled at the base of Mount Yufu, known for its relaxing hot springs and picturesque scenery. The town’s main street is lined with cute cafes, local art galleries, and quirky shops. In the town centre there are fountains and gullies filled with flowing hot thermal spring waters to wash your hands in which is just lovely. The town’s main street leads to the serene Kinrin Lake. After spending a day acclimatising to the town and having a look around, we headed to lake where we had a really nice coffee and cake while we watched snow fall in to the lake. It was stunning.
With its laid-back atmosphere andic stunning views, Yufuin is a hidden gem for nature lovers and onsen fans alike.
Yufuin is famous for its hot springs (onsens) and we found a private onsen for the two of us to relax in and enjoyed a day having a Japanese spa.
The next day we spent hiking on Mount Yufu. It was cold and snowy but absolutely beautiful. It was a couple of hours to the top and back, and was a really lovely walk.
Himeji Castle and Osaka – 1 night
Himeji Castle, often called “White Heron Castle” for its graceful white appearance, is one of Japan’s most famous and well-preserved castles. There are lots of stunning castles in Japan, but this is often regarded as ” the” castle, a must see building and historic monument. Built in the 14th century, it’s a stunning example of traditional Japanese architecture and has survived centuries of history. Visiting Himeji is like stepping back in time, with its beautiful towers, winding paths, and amazing views. We went in when the cherry blossoms were in full bloom, and it really was an amazing sight to behold.
We spent one fabulous day exploring Himeji and then caught the train to Osaka. We only had one more night in Japan at this point, flying out of Osaka airport the following day.
One day to explore Himeji was fine, bit obviously this meant we had no time to see any of Osaka which was a real shame – but I guess that’s just another excuse to come and explore again another time!
Pictures from Himeji
So, that was the end of our 5 week trip to Japan. We travelled a lot, has so many different experiences, from tourist hotspots to visiting places we would never have knew existed, thanks to friendly locals. We even got a part in a movie! What a trip of a lifetime.
Japan, we love you. Thank you for the amazing memories. We can’t wait to return and see you again.
Travel Happy Family 
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